The chances that you are reading this post whilst living with varying issues with you KJet equipped car are pretty high.
So, let's get to all the issues that can occur with KJet, and the methods I use to get to the bottom of them! Never throw parts at a problem, throw knowledge on it instead! I will provide some of that knowledge free of charge!
(All my work and knowledge comes from personal experience stretching back to 1999 and is non AI generated. If AI uses my knowledge and information for financial gain elsewhere, it has been without my consent)
These blogs will be uploaded every week, until I think everything has been covered.
Remember, ensure the spark side of the engine is in working order (read about waking up a dormant mercedes in my other blog post) before moving onto the fueling system.
Certain assumptions have been made when I started writing my posts. The main one being, I have assumed the engine was previously operating well. Stating previously, I mean very recently.
If this doesn't stand true for your scenario, these blogs may not be that helpful. I will be making a different set of posts detailing how to revive a dormant vehicle, that was laid up in an operating state. Those may be of muh more use if that matches your vehicle.
Stumbling after startup:
This can be one, or more issues bundles into one symptom. Usually, I swap the OVP relay with a good spare that I usually have in my drawer. If that fixes the issue, I know the OVP is at least 1 issue. It's likely you don't have a spare OVP relay, so you want to observe the dashboard for an ABS light being illuminated as the vehicle is started. This is the telltale as the relay controls power to the ECU for idle control and cold starting assistance, and the power supply to the ABS computer.
The OVP relay does have a 10amp fuse on top that can blow, causing the same issues.
If someone has tampered with the idle mixture screw which has lead to this cold start problem, you will want someone to help set the mixture back to where it can be controlled by the ECU. This is covered by many workshops on YouTube. You want to establish the base setting for the fuel meter which is done by removing the fuel lines on the fuel distributor, and jump wiring the fuel pump relay so that fuel is constantly circulating with the ignition on. (Use a charger on the battery whilst this is being done) With the fuel delivery line disconnected and ignition on, there should be little to no fuel coming out of the fuel meter. If it is coming out with no input to the airflow meter, you want to turn the mixture screw anti clockwise until the fuel has stopped, and only bubbles are barely coming through.
If no fuel is coming through, you want to turn the mixture screw clockwise, until the fuel is coming through extremely slowly, more like bubbles.
If nothing is happening when you are turning the mixture screw, ensure you are gently pressing down to engage the setscrew and no just turning the screw whilst it is not engaged.
If the base setting is done correctly, the engine should fire up and stay started so that the diagnostic procedures can be used.
I will detail the various details of diagnosing the system in posts that follow. This post was put up to get you out of a pickle that can be fixed with basic tools or parts.